LISBON

We flew off the rock and landed running. It's a good thing we had the stroller to lean on. The wheels kept us mobile.

The Lisbon bullring was right around the corner from our hotel, but our first priority was a mall. We took the subway directly to the food court and began gorging!

McDonalds, Burger King, and KFC never tasted so good!

The Baxio is historical downtown Lisbon. Very unique and welcoming. There were throngs of people and street theater and yet there was room to walk and places to sit and watch. Very "un" big city.

We saw so many great places and it wasn't very complicated getting around. When traveling always try to get a hotel near a metro stop. Very helpful!

So much of our vacation was in the "getting there": Lots of walking, waiting in subway stations, buses, and Tram 28 (that was an adventure in itself). Luckily the weather was fantastic so when we tired, the grass was a welcome stop.

MADRID

Madrid was freezing! We had to get out the winter coats and gloves and it spit rain on most days. All of us were running out of steam, especially me who had been fighting some voice stealing illness. The hotel was not bad, but not as nice. And it wasn't in a part of town you wanted to walk around and just look about. It reminded me of Detroit!

One good thing about the hotel was it was on top of the train station and metro. All kinds of food places (though expensive), and when we were done for the day the metro took us home.

The weather didn't hurt us too much in Madrid because we had destinations. The Royal Palace was amazing (but didn't allow photography). The Prado was even better (but didn't allow photography). The Rein Sophia was maybe even better than that, but we couldn't photograph Guernica (we did anyway).

The park outside the Prado would have been a nice day to spend in the sun had we had the warmth. There were also hoodlums trying to scam us out of money, so I was watching my back.

Madrid is very big city. This felt more like NYC. Even if you speak the language they look at you funny.

It was harder to fit in. Three adults and seven kids, what so weird about that?

The language was not a big problem because we had three Spanish speakers (some better than others). But in Espana we didn't find as many willing to try English, and so we had our moments of glory and disappointment.

Everyone feels a little better coming back to Terciera knowing our stay for another year is imminent. It's a beautiful world out there and it's nice to see a small part. We've explored a little and now we can appreciate and share!

It's been so long since I've done any writing.

Nothing is new any more, only.... more colorful. Exchanges with neighbors has less uniqueness and more commonality. Less of this land is strange, more is familiar.

I'm even getting used to the unpredictable weather. Walk out the door with layers and sometimes a change of shoes (boots). We found out our stay here will be at least another year, so I'm trying even harder to accept it's disappointments and discover its' charm. There are so many places on this little rock, I haven't been to. No matter where you are, in the world, it's so easy to get into a rut. Or is it simply a routine? Comfort comes in repetitiveness. Learning comes in change.

This week we leave for a grand adventure in learning. Along with Amy, Mark and Taylor, we are traveling to Lisbon for 4 days and then Madrid for another 4. I'm so excited about being a tourist again. Not necessarily where we are going, only that we will be once again strangers in a strange land. It will all be new, exciting, unique.

I'm sure after 8 days, everyone will be glad to get back to routine (and away from each other). That is something good to say for ruts. But I'm confidant it will be a great trip for everyone.

And I'll have something to blog about!

Christmas in Terciera

This year we spent Christmas on island.

Last year was amazing, but a little pricey. We did Disney and relaxed on the beach. Our airfare alone was unmentionable.

We were able to decorate completely, unlike last year with our sad little Charlie Brown tree. We had two trees and lights in all the windows. I thought it looked great!

Then I saw the neighbors' tree. The comparison to ours just made me sad.

The Portuguese on this island have the tradition of decorating under the tree. Most spend a lot of money on a nativity set, and then create the setting. Eddie and Rubin cut moss from the lot next door and covered the area they had prepared.

I don't even know how they did it,

but the ducks had running water. It was amazing!

Everything was under the tree, houses, deer, trees, and of course the baby Jesus.

Christmas Eve is traditionally when Portuguese families get together and we were humbled to be invited to share traditions with the Pacheco's and extended family. A long table was brought in with twenty chairs for us all to sit together. Normally the garage is used for this purpose, it was a big debate(but Edwarda was sticking to american culture on this one).

The dinner was traditional american and portuguese. We had turkey, ham and taters (mashed and sweet). And we had bacalou (a fish casserole), squid, and another fish dish. And of course the giant table covered in sweets! It was an evening we will not forget.

They even decorated the food table!

Maybe next year..........

festival!

I use festival in small caps because it's not "The Festival" which is Mardi Gras. But each town has a festival.

( Although there are so many festivals on this island I can't keep up.) This week is our town's, Porto Martins festival. One week with firecrackers going off all the time.

On island, they use firecrackers to inform. A boom goes off when it's time for a bullfight. A boom goes off when its time for a dance. A boom goes off when church is over and it's time for a parade. Lots of booms throughout the day when its festival. Lots of information. The booms must be in Portuguese, because I never get it.

I'm almost in the loop. Our neighbors give us a lot of info we wouldn't normally have, but it's 9:43 pm and I have no idea what that last boom just meant.

The town festival means the last bullfights are here, and ours are this week. We have two in the town proper and one on our street. There is also lots of music at night and one day they will have a field with baby vacas (cows) for the kids. How kids play with baby cows I'm interested to see.

Last night our neighbors had us over for a traditional Portuguese meal to celebrate "festival". I was thankful Edwarda knows my kids and made some french fries and fried chicken to appease them. Albertina made two kinds of Alcaltra (island dish), fish and meat. The fish was eel (Sr. Fernando explained to Randy how after the eel is caught is must be clubbed to death) and the meat came from Ruben parents (they have a dairy farm). All the food was wonderful.

You can't beat the conversation though:

"What did she say?"

"Abrigado?" I think.

Lots of questions, but also lots of smiles.

Next week is the bullfight on our street. I'm excited!

SUMMER TRAVEL

Mas Desculpe! Many pardons!

Our blog title is "traveling stumlers", and at a time when we traveled the most, I wrote the least.

Our summer was so jam packed:

Arrived by plane in Norfolk Virginia, the day after school let out.

Spent one evening by the bay before hopping a train to D.C.

D.C. to Chicago was on a sleeper Amtrak (which was sooo cool).

Spent the entire afternoon in Chicago.

We went up the Sears Tower.

Walked through Millennium Park.

Did the ferris wheel in Navy Pier.

Ended up in Indianapolis late at night for one more hotel before Pat and Irvin picked us all up with two vans. We had over fourteen pieces of luggage, and everyone made it back.

Our home away from home was a little cramped in Floyds Knobs. But we made it work with three couches being slept upon and two bedrooms occupied. Close quarters!

Pat and Irvin had a cookout right away to celebrate missed birthdays, and Father's Day weekend. Nathan and my brother's came, along with special friends (you know who you are).

We had a great return with family and friends. Too many late nights singing and carrying on.

Of course this was only the beginning.

We went to Michigan for a week then drove to Batesville to drop the kids off with my Mom.

From Indianapolis, Randy and I flew to Houston. A 4 day cruise to Cozumel Mexico began our trip and a weeklong seminar for Randy ended it.

The cruise was fun with two other couples, one of which were from our island. Glen and Suzie do this cruise every year, and didn't have much trouble talking us into it.

The weather when we returned to Houston was sooo hot, I spent the whole time in the hotel room. But the time alone was enjoyable and needed.

After returning to Indianapolis we drove back up to Michigan for a few days before getting back for Fruedenfest in Oldenburg.

Then on back to Floyds Knobs (only a two hour drive) for a few days to return to Batesville on the weekend for the Volgelsang golf scramble.

Can you guess?

Back up to Michigan. We really enjoyed the lake house this year. But almost not enough.

It was just so here there and everywhere! Always coming and going. I'm looking back on my calendar thinking "What the hell?"

Randy had bought Cubs tickets way back in May so that us and his parents could go together. It ended up Gran wasn't doing so well and Pat and Irv. didn't get to go. Our neighbor Rich was the lucky participant, with two tickets being sold because Sarahjane opted out. (She's un-American!) Sarah had spent the week with her friends and went to Warped tour in Cincinnati instead.

The Cubs game was incredible! We were in the second row behind home plate and Henry has his own souvenir to boast. (A broken bat splinter!) Randy saw himself on t.v. the next day on highlights, but it went so fast, I couldn't tell.

Good times. Gran did recover to a point, but not as good as before.

When we returned again, (Floyds Knobs, are you keeping up?) the renters in our house moved out and it was time to clean and purge. Because we already had new renters, and a moving company was collecting another shipment to be sent overseas, we were in a hurry to get the house in order. Lots of cleaning, and lots of trips to Goodwill. (What were we thinking? I kept that lampshade for who?)

The last bit of excitement came back up north. Pat and Irvin went to the lake and stayed with the kids while Randy and I went to Chicago for Lallapalooza. Pat, Irv and the kids all had a great time. That trip ended with a little ditch digging and concrete filling. (Whenever we would play too hard, there was always some form of work awaiting.)

From Michigan we spent one last week in Batesville soaking up as much family as we could. Oscar and Randy did the first Colts game together, then back to Floyds Knobs for a final pack-up, and many short goodbyes.

What's so sad is I'm already thinking about how to get more people seen into next summer. I promise to plan better.

Thank you for a wonderful summer! See ya next year!

Karen

Terciera Bullfighting

This is what's special about our island. 

 Bullfighting in the streets.

Not exactly what most people think of "bullfighting", but that's what they call it.  

The tradition began from one of the many times

the island was under siege.  This particular time,

the Spanish were coming in from the southeastern side.

It would have been another defeat for Portugal,

were it not for a young woman's idea.

(Don't quote me on the young lady)

This woman let all the bulls out of their pens

to run down the hill towards the port of attack.

The bulls scared off the Spanish, marking one

of a few victories for the Azoreans.

The morning before a bullfight, the buyers, and any interested folk gather in the center of the island in one of four bullrings.  Here the bulls strut their stuff, and usually four bulls are chosen for each fiesta.  After the choices are made, they let some of the younger bulls out to test their charge factor. 

 Play with them.

Create their hate for people in general.

On the evening of the bullfight, people start to 

gather about an hour before hand.  The food and beer 

venders sell their ware, and the voyeurs get their spots.

 Controlling your spot is essential for a fun bullfight.

It needs to be close to the street, but high behind a

sturdy fence or stone wall.  It's amazing and scary to see

how high these massive animals can jump. 

In many of the larger stores, they play videos of past bullfights.  Of course only the most exciting ones make it in, but it makes you think very hard about where to plant your rear. 

The young men see the bullfights as a rite of passage.  It's something every young man needs to do at least once. 

There is a mute gentleman who goes to many bullfights and gets very close to the bulls face.  I've seen him at the bullfights myself, and witnessed him on many videos from past years.  

Makes you wonder his motivation.

This fall when we return, the bull crates will be in our driveway.  It was fun last year from Edwarda's front yard. 

 I can see it being even better this year.

Under the Island

We did some underground exploring.  Our neighbors' adopted son is studying to be a tour director and wanted to practice his English.

(side note)  They teach proper English in the Portuguese schools.

 It's easier to talk with the ignorant 

rather than the trained. 

Going into the volcano was a welcome change to the weather.  The wind had been coming from all directions and very cold.

After we entered the cave, the rain fell from the hole but the wind was kept at bay.  We could see the different types of lava on the sides of the cave and imagined the heat that created these textures.  The lush hole in the ground at one time spewed white hot magma.  Now it was creating a beautiful image in my lens.